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CHANGPAS
Pastoral Yak Herders


The
Chang-Thang plateau of Ladakh

The
Village of Karzok
The small village of
Karzok (above) sets slightly above the grass lined shore of Lake Tsomori
at an altitude of 16,000 feet. Once the center of central Asian trade,
Karzok now points toward Karzok Fu, where the Changpas pitch their
Rebos and tend their herds of yak, goats, sheep and horses. This area
serves as the summer home for the Changpas because of the availability of
pasture and snowmelt streams.

The
Rebos
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The Changpas are a transhumant group
moving vertically from one valley to another. They live in yak hair
tents called Rebos, (pictured on the left). Each Rebos is
occupied by an independent, generally polyandrous family and serves as the
basic unit of Changpas society. |
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Pictured on the left, one can
see the panels of woven yak hair sewn together to form the covered
portion of a Rebos (along with a canvas patch.) The yak
hair tent is very durable and will last in excess of ten years.
Pictured on the right is a young man weaving a yak hair panel on his back
strap loom. With five to six members of a family weaving daily, it will
take approximately two months to weave a tent. |
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Inside the Rebos
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The yak hair portion of the Rebos
covers a fairly large area that is approximately four feet deep and lined with
boulders. As seen in these pictures the stone walls are draped with
blankets. Although the yak hair panels appear to be porous, the Rebos
are snow and rain proof. A large opening is located at the top which
allows sunlight inside the Rebos during most of the day and allows smoke
from the interior fires to exit easily. |
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The
Changra Goat
The photos below depict
Changpas women engaged in the milking of their Changra goats.
Generally these Changra goats are not raised for their meat but
rather for their milk and (Pashmina) wool. Pashmina wool
is the softer hair located at the root of the longer hair. |
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The photos on the left are of men
returning to their Rebos with their herds of Changra goats. Notice
that they are carrying pieces of wood and brush on their backs. Wood is scarce at
high altitude and is routinely collected for fuel with which to cook.
However, the Changpas use dung from yak and goats as their primary heat source
for heating and cooking. The photos on the right and below are of herds of
Changra goats being moved to pasture. |
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The
Yak
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The Chang Fu is the communal pasture
land for the Changpas. There is strict regulation of land usage by the
group as a whole. The Changpas follow the traditional system of
grazing where a headman, the Goba, decides the areas for animal
grazing. The Goba has a list of all pasture land and the
families who have access to a particular pasture. Notice in the above
picture the yak are grazing near their owner's Rebos. A closer look at
the yak, (below) reveals they are fairly short but broad. Their long
hair nearly reaches the ground. Their course under belly hair is cut,
spun and woven into panels and sewn together to make Rebos and ropes.
Their soft hair is used for blankets and small rugs. One of the more
important uses of the yak is for transportation. The Changpas move
approximately four times per year and the burden of carrying the heavy Rebos
is given to the yak. The yak have great strength and endurance and are
well suited for carrying heavy loads in extreme weather. Yak also
provide their owners with a dependable source of meat, hides and milk. |
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The
Horses
Shown below is a herd of horses that is being
moved to pasture. The Changas use horses for transportation, recreation,
and hunting; they are also used as pack animals during their migration from one location
to the next.

Back Strap Looms
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The Changpas are the only group in India
that use the portable back strap loom for weaving. Each family has a
loom, Thak, and since it is portable, it can be easily set up and used in any
location. All weaving including saddle bags, back packs, yak hair
panels for rebos, rugs, carpets and wide woolen panels used for clothing are
woven with the Thak. Though the Changas women weave year round, most
of the weaving is done during the summer months. |
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This woman is weaving a small
rug. She is using commercially colored thread in addition to wool
thread that was spun previously. |
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This woman is weaving a wide panel
of of wool to be used for clothing. To her left note the pile of raw wool that will be spun
into thread as needed. |

The
Perak
One of the more prized possessions of
Changpas women is the Perak, their traditional head-dress. The
woman on the left demonstrates how is it worn. As shown on the right,
the Perak is a wide strip of leather that is covered with cloth to
which are attached rows of rough-cut turquoise stones. Jeweled amulets
and silver ornaments are also attached. The wide ear pieces are made
of black lambskin. Starting when they were young girls, these
women purchased and collected turquoise and corral stones to add to
their Perak over the years. When worn, the Perak is an
obvious display of wealth. |

The
Goba

Pictured above is Tsewang
Paljor, acting Goba in the summer of 2002. The Goba,
(headman), regularly exercises his authority by allotting pastures,
coordinating the migrations and settling disputes. As the selected
Goba, Tsewang is in the possession of the Register, or "Kishi Deb",
which contains the names of all head of households, family members and
livestock statistics in the area under his jurisdiction. The
Chogdus, consisting of all the male heads of the separate households, by
consensus, select the Goba which is normally for a period of three
years. Personal qualities such as simplicity, honesty, truthfulness,
social status, reputation and mediating ability are considered important.
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Daily Activities
Important to the Changpas are the skills that must be developed to
accomplish routine activities such as spinning yak hair into thread. The
spinning of wool and yak thread is vital to the production of clothes,
rugs, carpets, that are used for sitting and sleeping and of course
the weaving of panels for their Rebos. On the right, the woman is
spinning yak hair into thread by hand with her spindle. This
activity consumes a great deal of leisure time. In the photographs
below, a woman is demonstrating the use of the portable grinding wheel.
During migration, a large portion of Changpas supplies, such as barley, are
obtained from trading in villages and individual farm houses. Barley
is parched and ground into flour called tsampa which is consumed with
every meal. |
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The
next generation of Changpas


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